Heidelberg, part 1
“I saw Heidelberg on a completely clear morning, which was both cool and refreshing due to the pleasant air. The city in its location and with its entire surrounding area has, one might say, something ideal
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Intro
I often hear from friends who live around the world that it’s time to make a post about Heidelberg so they can get a more complete picture of the city, rather than just small glimpses on Instagram. And recently I thought, why not, I’ve quite a lot of photos. Plus, when I mentioned in my post about Antwerp that there are three cities with which I fell in love at first sight (Antwerp being one of this wonderful trio), one of them was Heidelberg…23 years ago.
I decided to split the post into two parts. Today, in this one, I’ll share fragments of the city, some landmarks and ‘sweet moments’—a few spots where you can buy chocolate, desserts, and enjoy coffee. Next days, in the second part, I’ll cover hotels, restaurants, shopping and a bit of city life.
Let me just say that what I write reflects my personal opinion and I choose places according to my taste, which may not always match yours.
So, let the story begin.
You might have noticed that sometimes, at the beginning of my notes, I like to add a quote that, in my view, suits the place, person, or situation. And so, comfortably seated with a cup of hot cocoa at my desk, I set out on the fascinating search for the perfect quote…and I chose the appropriate one, settling on Goethe, although I admit, it wasn’t an easy choice. I was deciding between three quotes. The first, as you have already seen, were from Goethe’s Diary. The second were a very beautiful excerpt from a poem by Sasha Chorny (a well-known poet of the Silver Age, who studied in Heidelberg in 1906-1907). And the third were a deeply affectionate tribute to the city, written by a student of the Medical Faculty at Heidelberg University (1879-1885), and later a doctor with his own practice in Mannheim, Peter Schlieferovich. Through this search, I was once again reminded that Heidelberg has always attracted and charmed many fascinating people (largely thanks to the university, about which I will certainly write separately someday). Writers, scientists, philosophers, renowned doctors, lawyers… over its long history, this city has captivated an incredible number of people, which is not surprising. But now, let’s briefly touch on the phrase “over its long history” (I’m not planning a deep dive into the centuries here:) ).
The area around Heidelberg has been inhabited since prehistoric times, as evidenced by the discovery of ‘Heidelberg Man’ (Homo heidelbergensis), whose remains were found nearby and date back roughly 600,000 years. This is one of the oldest known human species in Europe. In the following millennia, Celtic tribes settled here, and later, during the Roman Empire, the Romans established themselves in the area. After their departure in the 5th century AD, the land was taken over by the Alemanni and Franks. Heidelberg as a city was founded in 1196, or at least the first written mention dates back to this year when it became part of the lands of the Counts Palatine of the Rhine from the Wittelsbach dynasty. The city later became an important center of the Holy Roman Empire, and in 1386, the famous University of Heidelberg—the oldest university in Germany—was established…and I think I’ll end my small historical summary here.
Stretching along both banks of the Neckar River, Heidelberg draws people with its cozy streets, rich history, beautiful architecture and, of course, its university. The city was spared the destruction of the Second World War and its center and surrounding areas retain historic architecture, mostly in Baroque and Jugendstil (Art Nouveau) styles. Entering Heidelberg feels like stepping back in time and that’s one of the things I love about this city. I enjoy wandering the streets that branch off from the main pedestrian Hauptstraße (one of the longest in Europe at 1.6 km), exploring and sometimes strolling among the magnificent old villas on the side of the Neckar opposite the Old Town, imagining the history of these luxurious, if time-worn, houses and the lives of the people who lived there.
I’m not a fan of large gatherings (theater, opera, clubs and restaurants are exceptions :) ), but from the side, sitting on a terrace or by the window of a cozy café, I find it fascinating to listen to and observe the incredibly diverse crowd of people who have come to Heidelberg from all corners of the world. Their paths, like those of many travelers hundreds of years ago, have crossed here in Heidelberg. Some arrive with tourist groups. With only a limited amount of time to see the city, they aim to take in as much as possible—their faces focused, cameras and phones always ready, because they want to remember and capture everything…I understand them. Some come to work at the university and others to study and spend lively, adventure-filled student years in this city (I’ll say it again—just as it was hundreds of years ago) and I think Heidelberg is perfect for that. There are also travelers who chart their own course, lingering in various cities as long as they wish and they aren’t in a rush; they simply wander through the city, leisurely exploring its landmarks, sitting in cafés discussing their next destinations, fully embracing slow living. And then there are the street musicians who fill the city in the warmer months, adding a wonderful atmosphere that I absolutely adore. And there is something that, at a certain moment, unites us all—a look of awe with which we gaze at this city…just as people did hundreds of years ago.
. Attractions
Now we can smoothly move on to the attractions. To be honest, for me, the entire city of Heidelberg is one big attraction. I love walking and having explored the whole city on foot (not only the center but also the surrounding areas), I can confidently say that there are interesting spots and beautiful architectural ensembles everywhere that deserve attention. Heidelberg also has the wonderful Kurpfälzisches Museum (the Palatinate Museum, a museum of art and archaeology), the Studentenkarzer (the student prison of Heidelberg University, which is now part of the museum on the history of the Old University) and much more.
But I think if you only have one or two days to explore the city, it’s best not to spread yourself too thin: focus instead on the places that are true landmarks of Heidelberg. One of them might be a less obvious spot on the tourist map and is located a bit away from the center — Heiligenberg. But I love this place very much and simply have to show it to you.
Heidelberg Castle
Heidelberg Castle, rising majestically over the city on the Königstuhl hill, is undoubtedly one of Germany’s most impressive historical and architectural landmarks, symbolizing both grandeur and the drama of the past. Many assume that all its ruins are the result of World War II, but this is far from true. Let me take you on a brief journey through its history.
The castle was built in the late 13th century and served as the residence of the Electors Palatine for several centuries. From its earliest years, it underwent numerous changes and reconstructions, reflecting the style of each era—from Gothic to Renaissance to Baroque. Each Elector aimed to make the castle not only a fortress but also a symbol of opulence. Notably, Frederick IV contributed significantly to its expansion, beginning construction on the “Friedrichsbau”—one of the most beautyful buildings in the castle complex.
However, the castle’s history is a tragic one. In the 17th century, during the Thirty Years’ War, it was destroyed by French troops. After a partial restoration, it suffered another blow at the end of the same century during the War of the Palatine Succession, when the French once again laid it to ruin. Fires and sieges left only remnants of its former glory.
Despite the destruction, the castle continued to stand as a symbol of the Electors’ authority until it was finally abandoned in the 18th century. From that point, its life took a different turn—its ruins became an object of admiration for romantics. Poets, writers and artists of the 19th century, such as Victor Hugo and Mark Twain, were inspired by its atmosphere, seeing in its ruins a symbol of enduring beauty and timelessness.
Today, Heidelberg Castle is an immensely popular destination for tourists from all over the world. It remains as beautiful and enigmatic as ever.
I haven’t included photos of the palace interiors here because I plan to create a separate photo-storytelling feature on them. But to briefly mention, visitors can see the Pharmacy Museum and the famous wine barrel, known as the Grosses Fass, which can hold around 220,000 liters of wine (note the figure of the court dwarf Perkeo in the near—a historical character with a certain connection to the wine and barrel). Inside, there is also an old chapel, some restored interior fragments, and, for culinary enthusiasts, a restaurant and bistro.
You can reach the castle on foot (if, like me, you enjoy a good cardio workout in the fresh air) or by funicular. In any case, plan to spend at least a couple of hours(of course depending on weather) this is truly the minimum—because a leisurely stroll through this marvelous castle and its equally wonderful gardens deserves to be savored without hurry.
Philosophenweg
This path is considered one of the most picturesque routes in Heidelberg. Here, philosophers, poets, scholars, students—all have strolled along this trail. After all, each of us is a bit of a philosopher in our own way, drawing inspiration for reflection from the surrounding beauty and panoramic views.
The trail stretches for about 2 kilometers, offering an undeniably breathtaking, postcard-worthy view of the entire Old City, the castle and the Neckar River, where barges and leisure boats drift by slowly. So, if you’re in Heidelberg on a nice day, I highly recommend climbing up, walking along the path and savoring this wonderful view.
Karl-Theodor Bridge
The Karl Theodor Bridge, a striking example of Baroque architecture, reflects the predominant style of Heidelberg’s Old City, much of which was rebuilt in this style after the wars and fires of the 17th century destroyed most of its medieval structures. Some buildings, like the “Zum Ritter” hotel, which I’ll show in a second post about Heidelberg, have survived from earlier times, but it’s an exception. So, back to the bridge. Built between 1786 and 1788, this is actually the ninth bridge in its location. All previous bridges were destroyed for various reasons, but the current bridge has withstood both time and weather. Only in March 1945, as the Wehrmacht retreated ahead of the advancing American infantry, was it severely damaged in an explosion—a rare instance of destruction in Heidelberg during WWII. The bridge was restored in 1946–47 and continues to bring joy to visitors, becoming a meeting point for street musicians, tourists from all over the world, couples, student groups, and more, especially in the warmer months.
The bridge is also adorned with statues of Elector Karl Theodor and goddess Minerva—though these are replicas, as the originals are housed in the Kurpfälzisches Museum.
Heiligenberg
Heiligenberg is a place where history and legends intertwine… This “Sacred Mountain” (as the name translates, although it’s actually a hill) bears traces of millennia. At the lower part of the hill lies the Philosophenweg, which I mentioned before, while at the top… at the top are the ruins of the Monastery of St. Michael, built on the site of an ancient Roman temple dedicated to the god Mercury, which in turn was built on a Celtic settlement. Imagine the layers of historical and cultural overlap… and the energy there.
To reach these ruins, you have to pass through a massive and complex site that I really like. I call this location- the place of reflection. This is the Thingstätte.
The Thingstätte is an open-air amphitheater built on Heiligenberg in 1934 during the Third Reich. Originally intended for outdoor events, performances, and propaganda, it’s a vast structure that draws on historical and folkloric roots. The term “Thing” refers to ancient Germanic assemblies held in open spaces for legal or communal gatherings. Such meetings often took place near sites of historical or mythical significance, like rocks, trees, ruins, or hills. Heiligenberg was an ideal location.
The Nazis’ plan was to construct 400 Thingstätten across Germany, but only 40 were completed, with Heidelberg’s being one of the first and most impressive. Its opening drew a crowd of 20,000, with a speech delivered by Goebbels. However, by 1936, the concept had already lost momentum and the amphitheater was repurposed as a public park and event space—a role it still fulfills today. Until recently, the Thingstätte even hosted unofficial Walpurgis Night gatherings.
Today, it’s a popular picnic spot for locals and its tranquil, laid-back atmosphere makes it hard to imagine that it was once a stage for Nazi propaganda.
Why do I call this place a place for reflection? Because every time we come here for a picnic and I see people exercising, children playing, couples in love, creative groups filming their videos and dogs happily running around, I think about what this place once was and what it is now. For me, it’s always a reminder that everything passes, everything changes and even the darkest times are replaced by brighter ones… and I feel at peace. It’s a strange, paradoxical place.
But these aren’t the only interesting locations on Heiligenberg.
Another sight worth mentioning is the ruins of the Monastery of St. Stephen, which, excuse the pun, are so ruined that the shape of the monastery itself is barely discernible. Today, there’s a watchtower there, the Heiligenbergturm, which was built in 1885 from the monastery’s ruins stones and if you climb it, you’ll get a wonderful view of the city.
And just across the road from it lies the most mysterious place on Heiligenberg. Shrouded in legends and mystery—the Devil’s Pit (Heidenloch). This ancient, very deep shaft (around 56 m) was once dug… well, that’s about all we know—who dug it and why is still a mystery. Although studies have been conducted, there are only theories. It may have been the Celts who used the pit for their rituals, but again, it’s unclear.
Such is this enigmatic hill. You can get there on foot via the Philosophenweg (just be sure to take the correct turns… and, of course, be ready for a cardio workout). You can also drive there—there’s plenty of parking (and by the way, a small restaurant too), and if I’m not mistaken, there’s also a bus that goes up there (but I wouldn’t bet on that).
P S In the top photos you can see the Thingstätte and in the bottom ones, the ruins of the Monastery of St. Michael.
. Sweet Moments
As you wander through the city, you’ll likely want to treat yourself to something delicious. I’ll cover restaurants in part two, but for now, let’s talk about “sweet moments”, the things that fill us with serotonin and endorphins, those hormones of happiness-chocolates and desserts (just don’t overdo it :) ). Even if sweets aren’t your favorite indulgence, visit one of the spots I mention (or all three :) ) to bring a tasty souvenir for loved ones. Each place is unique and iconic to Heidelberg.
Chocolaterie St. Anna No.1
Chocolaterie St. Anna No. 1 is a cozy chocolate boutique with a vibrant, unique character, known for handmade pralines, chocolate bars, ice cream, hot chocolate and coffee. Established in 2005, the shop sits at the start of the pedestrian Hauptstraße, styled in a charming, vintage style, with many interesting details that make you want to take a closer look.
I’m already anticipating the hot chocolate I’ll order next time!
I must also share this little story since my website is called Walk with the Dreamer (if you read the About page, you’ll know why). The shop was founded by a dreamer, Giuseppina Ehmann. Girl who born in Italy, she dreamed of opening a chocolate shop as a child but became a perfume boutique salesperson. Now attention—when Giuseppina turned 62 and it was time to think about retirement, she said no and returned to her childhood dream. She read numerous books on chocolate, attended professional exhibitions, invested all her savings into her chocolate boutique…and became successful, despite the fact that initially few believed in her success.
Giuseppina passed away in 2023, but luckily the boutique has found new, wonderful owners—hopefully, dreamers like her :)
So, friends, dream, believe, take calculated risks and be ageless & timeless… and don’t deny yourself a small piece of delicious chocolate. My favourite in St. Anna- chocolate with cardamom.
Cafe Schafheutle
Café Schafheutle is without exaggeration the most famous café and confectionery in Heidelberg, located right in the heart of the city’s pedestrian zone. This place, with its rich history spanning over a century, offers visitors traditional German desserts, cakes, pastries, pralines and its signature ice cream. All of these treats are prepared fresh every day in their own kitchen and they are as delightful to look at as they are to taste.
The café’s elegant, classic interior includes areas with different color schemes (I particularly love the ochre-colored section), a winter garden and a charming inner courtyard. Altogether, it has everything needed to enjoy a delicious and pleasant time, whether with friends or solo, cozying up by the window to watch the bustling crowd pass by.
Interesting fact: Former Chancellor Helmut Kohl often visited this café while studying at Heidelberg University. He had a favorite cake, which is still made following the original recipe created by the grandfather (great-grandfather) of the current owners( mother and son). This special Schafheutle cake, the “Schafheutle Spezialtorte,” is made with nougat cream, marzipan, and almond meringue layers—and I would happily savor a slice right now!
And one more thing: I have a particular fondness for family-owned businesses. To give a sense of the unique character of this place and the many generations it has seen, here’s a brief timeline:
Originally, the building was constructed around 1750 by Jean Pierre Rigal, where, under the commission of Elector Karl Theodor, they raised silkworms and produced silk.
In 1812, tobacco producer Philipp Jakob Landfried acquired the site. In the following years, it was used for drying tobacco leaves, and cigars were rolled in what is now the bakery (as a fan of cigars and their history, this fact fascinates me).
In 1832, confectioner M.C. Krall founded a café at Hauptstraße 94, which in 1933 was purchased by Otto Schafheutle and reopened as Theatercafé Schafheutle. The café quickly became a favorite meeting place for actors and patrons of the Heidelberg City Theater. Since then, the Schafheutle family, now in its fourth generation, has continued to own and develop this wonderful café.
Heidelberg Student’s Kiss
Studenten Kuss, or “Student’s Kiss,” is a famous chocolate that gained recognition beyond Heidelberg, as tourists from around the world buy it as a charming local souvenir. The chocolate’s history is closely tied to the traditions of Heidelberg University. It was created in 1863 by confectioner Fridolin Knösel, the owner of a cafe in Heidelberg where students and professors often gathered (Café Knösel, which still operates today, is located near the chocolatier).
The idea behind Studenten Kuss was romantic: Knösel observed that the young people in his cafe struggled to communicate due to the strict etiquette rules of that time. Expressing affection directly was discouraged, so Knösel came up with Studenten Kuss as a delicate way for people to exchange sweet tokens of affection. The chocolate became a symbol of an innocent “kiss,” allowing feelings to be shared without breaking the norms of the day.
So, that’s the interesting story behind Studenten Kuss, friends.
With that, the first part of my story (photo story) comes to an end, and soon I’ll release the second part, which will also be full of interesting content: restaurants, hotels, shopping…So,see u soon :)